Rolex Root Beer History
The Rolex Root Beer isn’t an official name for any specific Rolex model. Instead, it is a popular nickname collectors use for variants of the Rolex GMT Master (or GMT Master II) with a brown or half-brown bezel insert.
The most recent references with this nickname are the current Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer Ref. 126711 CHNR and 126715 CHNR models. There are vintage Rolex GMT models with solid gold casing and brown dials dating back to the beginning of the GMT collection. Some collectors also refer to these watches by the Root Beer nickname. The two-tone brown-dial Yacht-Master watch is also sometimes referred to by that nickname.
However, the term is more accurately applied to the brown bezel Rolex GMT models starting with the Rolex 16753 that debuted in the 1970s. It was a bicolored, brown, gold bezel watch and is generally considered the first Root Beer GMT-Master. This watch also had other distinctive features, including a matching brown dial, gold hour markers, and an oddly-shaped dial that resulted in the nickname “nipple dial. This first iteration of the Root Beer is generally hard to find today.
The second generation of the Root Beer came in the late 1980s as part of the upgraded version of the GMT Master timepiece (the GMT-Master II collection). This generation included the GMT-Master II Root Beer ref. 16713 (two-toned) and ref 16718 (yellow gold). If you are wondering is the Rolex Root Beer discontinued, both variants were in active production until 2006, when they were discontinued.
A long break followed until 2018, when Rolex announced the current versions of the Root Beer bezel (126711 CHNR and 126715 CHNR), which featured black and brown Cerachrom bezel inserts. These new watches also debuted the black dial colors, a first for Rolex.
Like their predecessors, the 6-digit Root Beers are available in two-tone and solid gold, but the gold variant in this case is Everose Gold instead of yellow gold. Unsurprisingly, the two-tone model remains the more popular option.
Features
Given the number of Root Beer models released over the years, there are slight variations in the aesthetic and technical features of the Rolex Root Beer. However, the latest version of this watch has emerged as an amalgamation of some of the core features the collection has become known for. Some of the main features of this watch are summarized below:
Distinctive "Root Beer" Aesthetic
All Rolex GMT watches are known for the distinctive colors of their bezels from which their unique nicknames are derived. The same is true for Root Beer. The defining feature of this timepiece is its unique bi-directional rotatable bezel featuring brown and black ceramic inserts (Cherachrom inserts).
The use of Ceramic inserts is an upgrade over the older models that typically feature half-brown, half-gold anodized aluminum Bezel inserts. In addition to the upgraded appearance, the Cerachrom bezel is more resistant to scratches and will maintain its vibrant color for a long time compared to aluminum inserts.
While the bezel colors distinguish between daylight and nighttime on the 24-hour bezel, it also influences the timepiece's aesthetics and is the main reason for its Root Beer nickname.
Casing & Material
Rolex released two variants of the Root Beer in 2018. For both references, the watchmaker ditched the yellow gold casing of the older root beer models for a combination of stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold (Everose gold). The result was a striking Rolex GMT watch with a warmer and more contemporary aesthetic than its predecessors. The full gold variants of the Root Beer are also known for their luxurious and distinct appearance.
Like other Rolex GMT watches, the Root Beer’s casing has a 40mm diameter, which is thick and robust, delivering water resistance of up to 100 meters. Despite its hefty build, this watch still has a nice feel on the wrist and is comfortable to wear.
Black Dial
The dial is another part of this watch that differentiates it from other versions. Instead of the popular brown sunburst pattern used in older models, the modern Root Beer has a glossy black dial paired with applied Everose gold markers to match the casing.
For a clean and legible appearance, this GMT Master II model does not have full indices. Instead, most hour markers are represented by dots except for the 6 and 9-hour markers, which are batons. The 12 o’clock marker is also represented by a triangle.
The gold markers and hour hands are filled with blue-glowing Chromalight lume. While the dial has been largely redesigned, Rolex has maintained a Mercedes hands design for this model, adding a classic touch to the truly contemporary timepiece.
Oyster Bracelet
The current Root Beer only uses Rolex’s Oyster Bracelet. This is a robust three-piece link bracelet presented in the Everose Rolesor combination, just like the case. However, for collectors who prefer the older vintage versions of this watch, you’ll find older models paired with a Jubilee bracelet. This bracelet option is considered more sophisticated but less sporty than the Oyster Bracelet.
Like most modern GMT Master watches, the bracelet has an Oysterlock folding safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. It’s an important watch feature for wearers with an active globetrotting lifestyle. It also has the Easylink comfort extension link, which is designed to allow the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm for added comfort.
Precise Movement
Modern Rolex Root Beer models are powered by the Caliber 3285 movement, the same in-house movement that powers other Rolex GMT Master II Root Beer timepieces. This impressive self-winding movement offers a power reserve of up to 70 hours, meaning it can last an entire weekend on a full wind. The movement has a Superlative Chronometer Certification, confirming its high precision and reliability.
Although the GMT Master isn’t a super technical watch, the movement offers several advanced features, including Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement, which makes it more Energy efficient, and a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for increased resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
How Much Does The GMT-Master II Root Beer Cost?
The Root Beer is one of the most diverse GMT models, with vintage variants from the 1970s and 80s. These older versions are highly sought after by collectors, with references like the Ref. 16753 going for as high as $13,400 to $15,700. The neo-vintage versions of this timepiece, such as the Ref 16714, can also be purchased for around the same price point. The Rolex Root Beer price for these versions is typically around $14,800.
With waitlists of up to 2 years, finding a brand new Rolex Root Beer for sale from authorized retailers will require a lot of patience. However, you can always opt for a secondary market purchase at a price tag that can be upwards of $45,000 for a modern Root Beer in relatively good condition.
Conclusion
The Rolex GMT Master II Root Beer is a prominent watch with hard-to-miss features that make it instantly recognizable. For collectors looking to get their hands on a true statement piece, the Root Beer variant of this watch is an ideal choice. There’s no denying the durability, versatility, and distinctive aesthetics of the Rolex GMT Master II Root Beer. Add in the technically advanced GMT movement, and you have a true winner on your hands. Whether you’re a fan of vintage models or contemporary references, there’s something for you in the Root Beer lineup.