Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168

The Patek Philippe 5168 timepiece comes with several Aquanaut signature features, especially the boldly embossed dial currently available in night blue and khaki color options. These two colorways stand out for their bold aesthetics, further adding to the model’s already imposing character and distinct masculine vibe.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168 History

The Patek 5168G is one of the latest additions to the men’s Aquanaut line, a collection that has increased in numbers and variety over the past two decades. Patek released the Aquanaut in 1997, following in the footsteps of the Nautilus collection designed by the legendary Gerald Genta himself twenty years earlier. The design of this timepiece borrowed several elements from the older Patek icon, notably its porthole-style casing and octagonal bezel.

Over time, Patek introduced several subtle revisions to the Aquanaut line, like reworking the relief of the dial pattern, varying the case size, and experimenting with new materials. Like the Reference 5167A released to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Aquanaut collection, the 5168G represented another significant milestone in the continuous evolution of the Aquanaut line.

The Patek 5168 was released to celebrate the collection's 20th anniversary, and just like the older Aquanaut, which paid homage to the Nautilus in its own way, the 5168G also revisits the design of one of the most popular Nautilus models.

When it was released, the Ref. The 5168G was a remarkable model for several reasons. First, it was the first Aquanaut men’s timepiece to be released in an 18k white gold case. It also had a diameter of 42mm, which makes it the largest model in the Nautilus line. The large size instantly earned the timepiece the nickname “Jumbo,” a nod to the original 1976 Nautilus (the Nautilus Ref. 3700 was nicknamed “Jumbo” despite its slightly smaller case diameter of 40mm).

Aquanaut 5168G Variants

The Aquanaut 5168G exists in two almost identical variants: the 5168G-001 and the 5168G-010. These two models come in the same case size and materials. They’re also powered by the same movement, with the defining difference between them being their dial and strap color.

• Aquanaut 5168G-001 - The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168g001 was the original version of this timepiece released in 2017 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut collection. It is characterized by a gradient blue dial with a matching midnight-blue composite dial that gives it a cool, sporty vibe.
• Aquanaut 5168G-010 - Patek announced the release of the Aquanaut 5168G-001, a follow-up to the anniversary model, at the Baselword event in 2019.  This watch has a fun military-inspired aesthetic with a khaki green embossed dial.  The strap is also in khaki but is a shade deeper than the dial—the khaki green color of the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G-010 gives off an assertive utilitarian aesthetic.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168 Features

The Ref. 5168G follows the same intricate design philosophy as the other Aquanaut watches. However, this timepiece has several remarkable features that set it apart from the rest of the collection, such as its oversized case and use of 18k white gold instead of stainless steel. This timepiece is also renowned for its bold colorways, especially the khaki green. Here’s an overview of the distinct features of the Ref 5168G.

White Gold Case

Both Patek Aquanaut 5168G versions have their case made entirely from 18K white gold. It is the first Aquanaut timepiece to use this material. Like the Nautilus, the collection has always been associated with stainless steel, which was one of its most appealing attributes in its early days. With the Aquanaut 5168, the watchmaker combines the noble elegance of white gold with the traditionally rugged aesthetics of the Aquanaut line.

The case is beautifully finished as well. It features alternating brushed and polished finishes, with the flat surface of the bezel having a brushed finish while the flank has a polished appearance. The elegant finish creates a sense of refined elegance while maintaining a distinctly sporty look for this timepiece.

Jumbo Size Case

The Patek 5168’s case measures 42mm, making it a noticeably brawnier watch than the 40mm reference 5167 or any other watch in the Aquanaut line. The larger size of this watch isn’t surprising. It is consistent with the recent trend of watchmakers making bigger, bolder timepieces in line with current market demands.

The larger case size of the Patek 5168 earned it the nickname “Jumbo” Aquanaut, which is fitting, considering the original Aquanaut 5060 measures only 35mm. Similarly, the ref 5065 has a 38mm case while the 5167 is 40mm.

With a 42mm size, this jumbo timepiece has some serious wrist presence. Patek Philippe doesn’t have a lot of timepieces of this size in its entire catalog. Despite the massive size of this timepiece, the Patek Aquanaut 5168G is surprisingly comfortable, thanks to its slim profile and integrated rubber strap. These features ensure that it maintains a light and comfortable fit.

The timepiece is only 8.25mm thick. This dimension gives it a sporty but refined aesthetic that makes it suitable for various occasions, from leisure to business casual occasions or everyday wear.

The Dial and Strap

The main attraction of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168  must be the matching color and pattern of the dial and composite rubber strap. Both versions of this timepiece have the same color and distinct geosphere pattern that fans of the Aquanaut line have grown quite familiar with.

The distinct embossed globe has the same pattern as the tropical rubber strap. The design ties the aesthetics of the entire timepiece together handsomely and creates a well-coordinated appearance. The blue tropical color 5168G-001 gives it an excellent, sporty appearance, while the green-khaki color 5168G-010 emphasizes the Aquanaut’s adventurous spirit.

For the blue variant, the color forms a gradient that radiates from a light blue color at the center to a darker shade towards the edges. This gives the dial a three-dimensional appearance, further enhancing the embossed pattern. The numerals on the dial are printed in bold Arabic numerals with thick, polished index hour markers above them. The dial has a simple, uncluttered appearance, and the hands and other elements are covered in luminous materials, providing excellent visibility even in low-light conditions.

Movement

The two versions of this timepiece are powered by the same Patek Philippe caliber 26‑330 S C. This is an automatic winding movement with only a time and date functionality. This is one of Patek’s most popular movements, and it is in more than 30 other timepiece models.

The caliber 26‑330 S C has 212 parts with 30 jewels. Despite the wide diameter of this watch, one of the features that gave it such a slender profile was its ultra-slim movement, which is just 3.3mm thick. The movement oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours.

The durable advanced movement has a Spiromax balance spring and is protected by a screw-down crown, making it waterproof to 120 meters. The sapphire display caseback of this timepiece provides a glimpse into the movement’s efficient design and high-level finishing.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168 Price

The Patek Philippe 5168G is a current model that is still in production. Hence, it is relatively more available compared to discontinued Aquanaut watches. You can buy this timepiece for about $50,910 from a retailer.

As a sought-after Patek timepiece, prices in the secondary market are slightly higher than in the retail market. If you wish to beat the long waitlist for this timepiece by buying a pre-owned model, it trades for about $74,007 on the low end, up to about $115,000 for the most expensive examples.

Conclusion

The Patek Philippe 5168G-010 is a bold and sporty Aquanaut model with a luxurious flex. As one of the latest Aquanaut models, it represents the next step in the natural evolution of Patek’s most important collections in its design and use of innovative materials.