The Royal Oak Chronograph 26320 has a vintage-inspired design, borrowing design elements from early Royal Oak watches from the 1970s. Yet, this watch is so modern in its design that it is often mistaken for one of the Royal Oak 50th anniversary models released in 2022, despite being a decade older.
The Audemars Piguet 26320 has an elegant aesthetic and enduring appeal that has allowed it to transcend generations while building a cult following with collectors and AP enthusiasts.
History and Legacy of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26320
The AP 26320’s history began with the legendary collection’s debut in the 1970s. For the first two decades, AP did not create a chronograph complication for this collection. This changed in 1998 when the Royal Oak Chrono eventually made its debut.
The first chronograph under this legendary collection was the stainless steel Ref 25860ST, which came in a robust but compact 39mm case, laying the foundation for what would become the most versatile and most popular categories within the Royal Oak collection.
So far, the watchmaker has released up to 12 Chronograph references for the Royal Oak collection. The Royal Oak 26320 joined this lineup in 2012. The watch was announced at the SIHH event in 2012 as a replacement for the older chronograph (ref. 25860 “Kasparov” and ref. 26300). It featured a number of notable upgrades, aesthetic and technical, with subtle changes to the proportions, finishing, and feeling on the wrist.
Features of the Audemars Piguet 26320
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26320ST is a minimalist’s dream. It is larger on the wrist than its contemporary, but it embodies the same sharp and clean aesthetics, maintaining optimal legibility despite featuring a chronograph complication. Here’s an overview of some of the most notable features of this Royal Oak Reference.
Uncluttered Dial Layout
As expected of a chronograph watch, the dial is the highlight of the Royal Oak 26320. The watch has a 12-hour chronograph subdial at the 9 o’clock mark, a 30-minute chrono timer at the 3 o’clock, and a small-seconds sundial just above the 6 o’clock marker.
These recessed subdials are paired with a handy date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. It’s a busy watch face, but AP has managed to keep the layout clean and legible. The dial features a pronounced ‘Grande Tapisserie’ pattern, a perfect reflection of the meticulous craft that goes into creating timepieces at Audemars Piguet.
The chronograph subdials feature an entirely different pattern. For these, AP used a guilloche “Clous de Paris” motif, with contrasting textures with the main dial hobnail pattern, adding a sense of depth and visual interest to the dial design. Overall, the layout is clean and elegant as ever, contributing significantly to the versatile appearance of this watch, so it pairs well with both casual and elegant attire.
Several details on the Royal Oak 26320’s dial set it apart from the chronograph watches that came before and after it. They include the color-matched sub-dials with different patterns, a perfectly balanced chronograph layout, and unobstructive date windows. These design features were so effective that AP eventually circled back to the same dial layout in the Ref. 26240 chronograph model that was released later.
41mm Casing
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26320 is available in stainless steel and yellow gold case options. This watch retains the same general case design and finish as its predecessors. The most notable difference is in the case proportion. This watch has a robust 41mm diameter and is 10.8mm thick. With this case size, the Royal Oak 26320 offers significant wrist presence, but it may feel overwhelming for wearers with a wrist size of less than 6.5 inches.
Despite its size and robust build, this watch's wearing experience is still sleek and comfortable as long as it is perfectly sized for your wrist. This Royal Oak Chrono is one of the most adaptable pieces in the collection.
The only complaint users have about the case design is its polished surfaces. This makes the watch more prone to scratches and dings, so you have to be wary of your surroundings when you have this watch on. The delicate finish makes it feel more like an elegant dress watch than a rugged sports timepiece.
Screw Down Crown
One of the highlights of this watch’s design is its unique screw down crown. The AP Royal Oak 26320 was the last Chronograph Royal Oak to feature this type of screw-down pusher. This simple detail is one of the reasons why this watch is so popular with collectors and purists.
The screw down crown controls the functions of this timepiece while also delivering a water resistance of up to 50 meters. This depth rating protects the watch from splashes and accidental dunks in water, but it isn’t suitable for diving or any other serious water-based activity. Purists also love the screw down crown because of its satisfying, old-school tactile experience.
Frederic Piguet Movement
One of the main downsides of this Royal Oak Chronograph model is that an in-house movement doesn't power it. The self-winding Caliber 2385 movement that powers this watch is based on the Caliber 1185 produced by Frederic Piguet. This was the last outsourced movement used in a Royal Oak chronograph watch.
Despite this, it is still a remarkable movement with a thickness of just 5.5mm, which makes it one of the thinnest automatic chronograph movements. The reliability and overall quality of this movement are also unquestionable. The historical significance of this movement also contributes to the iconic status of this watch and its desirability in collector circles.
Robust Bracelet
The Royal Oak bracelet is another highlight of its design. The bracelet’s profile contributes to the silhouette and finish of this watch. With a robust quality that competes with legendary bracelets like Rolex’s Oyster Bracelet, the AP Royal Oak 26320’s bracelet adds to its elegance while keeping it secure on the wrist.
The bracelet is made from a combination of several small parts in seven different sizes. Like the rest of the case, the bracelet features a combination of satin-brushed and highly polished finishes. This finishing pattern catches light in the most captivating way, adding to the aesthetic brilliance of this timepiece.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26320 Price
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26320 was in production between 2012 and 2017 when it was eventually discontinued. This means it is only available in the secondary market, where prices tend to fluctuate based on the demand, the model’s current popularity, and the condition of the timepiece you intend to buy.
Generally, the AP Royal Oak 26340 has experienced steady growth and enduring popularity in the secondary market despite being over a decade old. In addition to the chronograph functionality and unique aesthetics, its historical significance also contributes to its popularity in the secondary market. It is considered a transitional model between classic AP designs and modern models of the current in-house movement era, which makes it highly sought after by collectors.
A stainless steel Royal Oak Chronograph 26320 sells within a price range of $35,000 to over $50,000 in the secondary market. Prices for models in gold casing are naturally higher, starting from about $41,000 on the low end and going all the way up to about $90,000.
The Royal Oak Chronograph 26320 is often referred to as the hidden gem of Royal Oak chronographs. Whether stainless steel or gold, this watch is a perfect blend of elegance and versatility wrapped in one moderately-sized and exquisitely finished casing. Its one-of-a-kind design features, including the screw-down crown and ultra-thin movement, make it one of the most sought-after timepieces in AP’s catalog.
